Artigo da JCE
Production of Natural Perfume Ingredients
" Traditionally, the discovery and development of new synthetic chemicals were based on the analysis of natural sources like plants (such as lavender and jasmine), fruits (for example,
lemon and orange) and animals (including musk from the musk deer and ambergris from the sperm whale). The main components contributing to the smell of these natural sources
are produced using both old and new methods falling into three basic classes: expression, distillation, and solvent extraction.
Expression is the simplest of the three techniques and is only used for the citrus oils, for example, lemon, orange, and bergamot. When an orange peel is pressed, a fine spray of
orange oil is released, which is called an expressed oil.
When steam distillation is used in the manufacture and extraction of essential oils, the plant material (herb, flower, wood, or spice) is placed in a still and steam is forced over
the material. The hot steam helps to release the aromatic molecules from the plant material. Usually, the oils co-distil with the steam. They are then separated from the water by
means of a Florentine flask, which separates them based on their differing densities.
Perfume materials obtained in this way are referred to as essential oils. Thus, for example, the oil obtained by steam distillation of lavender is known as the essential oil of lavender or lavender oil. The water that is separated in this process is discarded, in most cases, as it mainly contains
waste products. Plant materials such as rose, lavender, or orange are different. The waters, in these cases, contain substantial quantities of odorant ingredients. They are marketed
as “floral waters” and are used as perfume and flavor ingredients.
Ethanolic extraction is not used very much for plant materials
because of the high proportion of water compared with oil in the plant (vanilla beans are an important exception)."
lemon and orange) and animals (including musk from the musk deer and ambergris from the sperm whale). The main components contributing to the smell of these natural sources
are produced using both old and new methods falling into three basic classes: expression, distillation, and solvent extraction.
Expression is the simplest of the three techniques and is only used for the citrus oils, for example, lemon, orange, and bergamot. When an orange peel is pressed, a fine spray of
orange oil is released, which is called an expressed oil.
When steam distillation is used in the manufacture and extraction of essential oils, the plant material (herb, flower, wood, or spice) is placed in a still and steam is forced over
the material. The hot steam helps to release the aromatic molecules from the plant material. Usually, the oils co-distil with the steam. They are then separated from the water by
means of a Florentine flask, which separates them based on their differing densities.
Perfume materials obtained in this way are referred to as essential oils. Thus, for example, the oil obtained by steam distillation of lavender is known as the essential oil of lavender or lavender oil. The water that is separated in this process is discarded, in most cases, as it mainly contains
waste products. Plant materials such as rose, lavender, or orange are different. The waters, in these cases, contain substantial quantities of odorant ingredients. They are marketed
as “floral waters” and are used as perfume and flavor ingredients.
Ethanolic extraction is not used very much for plant materials
because of the high proportion of water compared with oil in the plant (vanilla beans are an important exception)."
Journal Of Chemical Education, Vol. 81 No 4, Janeiro 2004
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